Best Pastel de Nata cooking classes in Lisbon (that I’ve done) + top picks
It took me eight years of living here to finally roll up my sleeves and join a pastel de nata cooking class in Lisbon – and I honestly have no idea why I waited so long.…
The journal
Stories
Routes, regions and practical notes for travelling with a little more attention.
My perfect 7-day Algarve road trip itinerary: West-to-East route
Golden shores with gently lapping waves. The smell of grilled sardines and sunscreen. Trees heavy with figs, lemons and olives. White-washed villages watching slow days pass by. I love the Algarve, especially in the summer, and…
Dough dance: the magic of Tentúgal’s 400-year-old pastry
Isabel Rama works in silence. Circling the mound, she grabs fistfuls of the heavy dough, stretching it out and slapping it down in her own rhythm. From the first touch, an air bubble forms, growing larger…
Where to eat in Braga
A golden Pudim Abade de Priscos, wobbling with the fat of a hundred egg yolks and a splash of port. A plate of bacalhau à Braga, salted cod fried and buried under a mountain of onions.…
Best hotels in Porto (that I’ve stayed at)
Having lived in Lisbon since 2018, I’ve had the chance to visit Porto a dozen times, exploring the city from bases in various different neighbourhoods and staying in a mix of hotels, guesthouses and apartments. Since…
24 hours in Elvas: Best things to do in Portugal’s fortress city
Elvas has been shot at, starved out and surrounded by Spanish troops. But not once did the largest fortified town in Europe fall to the Spanish – and they tried to take it four times. History…