The journal
Routes, regions and practical notes for travelling with a little more attention.
Hidden tascas, endless vinho, and the soulful chorus of Cante Alentejano – was it just another Saturday afternoon in the Alentejo? When I want to really feel the heart and soul of Portugal, I like to…
Belém is a must-visit riverfront neighborhood rich in monuments, museums, and manicured parklands. It was from these shores, where the Tagus River kisses the Atlantic Ocean, that many ships including explorer Vasco da Gama’s fleet in…
Belém might be packed with tourists, but finding a good spot to eat doesn’t have to feel like a scavenger hunt. I live close by and have spent plenty of time dining in Belém, so consider…
One by one a young fisherman is slapping octopuses on a giant scale. He’s tallying up the day’s catch: some 37 boxes of polbo (as it’s known in Galician) weighing nearly 300kg. It’s a fairly quiet…
Spring can be the best time to visit Portugal, but it’s not all sunshine all the time. While there’s optimism in the air as the country defrosts and the warmth of the sun gains strength, there’s…
A horrified look crossed our faces when, on the third day, we were asked to hand over our phones for 24 hours. These little black bricks are basically part of us. How could we function, stay…