The journal
Routes, regions and practical notes for travelling with a little more attention.
Caldas da Rainha, a small city about one-hour drive north of Lisbon, is known for two things: hot springs and ceramics. Sometime in the 15th century, Portugal’s Queen Leonor established a hospital and church here –…
There’s a lot more to Portuguese food than piri piri chicken and custard tarts. In this article I’ve rounded up two dozen or so traditional Portuguese dishes you can easily order throughout the country. When it…
Portugal has no shortage of coffee. It’s there on every corner, every meal, possibly even every hour of the day (and night) for some people. But as much as I’m here for bica culture, there’s a…
A tiny chapel perched on the edge of a cliff filled with tiles? Hello! This is Ermida da Memória, a little capela in the coastal city of Nazare that is loaded with religious legend. The story goes that…
If you make it to Porto – by train or not – stopping by the entrance hall of the city’s central station, Estação de São Bento, is a non-negotiable. The first time I entered the stunning space I…
Once a year Lisbon Open House swings open the doors to some of the city’s most interesting and exclusive buildings for one weekend. I, of course, scoured the website looking for access to tiles and I…