The journal
Routes, regions and practical notes for travelling with a little more attention.
People who visit Lisbon always talk about the light. Maybe it’s the way it bounces off glazed tiles, casting an intangible, indescribable and soft brightness across the streets in the morning hours. While other cities have…
Beneath Portugal’s postcard views and limitless pastel de nata access is a country rich in traditions, cultural quirks and little things that might catch first-time visitors off guard. I’ve called Portugal home since 2018, and through…
As overtourism has etched away parts of the soul and culture of Lisbon and Porto, Braga remains at its core a traditional Portuguese city. It’s a lively, gorgeous destination with plenty of history, baroque architecture, contemporary…
See the dramatic landscape of the Douro Valley shift as you float away from the riverbank. While standing at a high-altitude viewpoint looking down at the terraced slopes is jaw-dropping, drifting along the Douro River looking…
How you travel to the Douro Valley deeply changes your experience of the gorgeous wine region. Whether you curve around the steep ridges by car, trace the water’s edge on the historic Linha do Douro train…
The first time I visited Estremoz it was bucketing rain. I was trying not to slip on the tessellated marble pavement on the short walk between the car and the tasca. We were on our way…