36 hours in Coimbra
You won’t see the inside of Coimbra’s most stunning building on this blog, or almost anywhere. So concerned is the leadership of Portugal’s oldest — and for hundreds of years only — university with protecting the…
The journal
Stories
Routes, regions and practical notes for travelling with a little more attention.
35 unusual and off-beat things to do in Portugal
It was while standing beneath the 8-metre (26-feet) high glass ceilings of Carlos Relvas’ mid-19th-century photography studio (in the middle of Portugal’s virtually unknown Ribatejo region) that I thought, ‘wow, Portugal has so many amazing stories…
Eating through Athens: Markets and mezze to modern Greek spots
Down in the basement of Diporto time stalled some time around 1955. Wine barrels line the walls of the centenarian taverna where a brusque, elderly gentleman named Mitsos is flipping small fish on a tiny charcoal…
Where to eat in Tavira: Best restaurants & cafés
Somewhere between my second flat white of the day and a plate of clams drenched in olive oil and white wine, I realised Tavira might just be the best town in the Algarve to eat and…
24 hours in Arraiolos: Rugs, food & wine in the Alentejo
Set amongst rolling plains dotted with olive trees and cork oaks, Arraiolos is a small Alentejo town – not far from Lisbon or Évora – with a cool and unique craft culture. Over centuries, women of…
1-Day hike: The most beautiful section of Portugal’s Fishermen’s Trail
Besides the caminho, mainland Portugal’s most famous multi-day hike must be the gorgeous Costa Vicentina’s Fishermen’s Trail. The 226.5-km (140-mile) coastal trail stretches along the south-west coast of Portugal, almost always with the ocean in sight. …